Day #0 (Arrival), January 22-23, 2011

So, here I am in Tanzania! Laying on a bed in my room in Springlands hotel in Moshi. A fan is circulating the air around, restlessly moving the mosquito net hanging from the ceiling. It's past 1 a.m. and I arrived in Kilimanjaro International airport at 9:30 p.m.

It took me about 25 hours to get here, leaving Los Angeles at 8:30 a.m. on January 22, making a connection in NY to fly to Amsterdam and then another 8 hour flight from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro. I was sleeping most of the time, so the trip seemed easy.

The night before my departure I only got 1 hour of sleep, finishing up my packing and making sure all the details are taken care of. I dozed off around 3:30 a.m. and it felt as if I jumped into a black hole. It was very dark, quiet and warm. The sound of my alarm clock at 4:30 a.m. brought me back to my room with a packed duffel bag, backpack and another smaller bag I was going to take with me on the plane. Ski pants, sweater, fur vest and hiking boots were patiently waiting to be put on. I didn't have to worry if my duffel bag gets lost or delayed during the flight. I was wearing or taking with me on board all the necessary things for the climb.

As I was going through the security check at LAX, one of the guards asked me if I was flying to Minnessota in those ski pants. "No, I am flying to Tanzania where I am going to climb Kilimanjaro" - I responded with a smile, realizing that I am truly on my way. He looked at me in bewilderment and let me through. It was 7 a.m. and I had enough time to call my brother and my Mom in Moscow. I never told my Mom that I was going to Tanzania all by myself. I told her that I was going skiing with a friend and decided to tell the truth when I get back. It felt so much nicer not having to worry if my Mom will have a heart attack worrying about me:)

Quiet, uneventful and peaceful flights from Los Angeles to New York and from New York to Amsterdam. It was morning of January 23rd in Amsterdam and I had about 3 hours of layover. When I got to my departure gate to Kilimanjaro, I instantly spotted several people with backpacks wearing Asolo hiking boots. I felt like I belonged to some private club where members are identified by the attire. We were all people of different ages, nationalities, gender, background, etc., though we were all on the same mission. There was no need to talk to each other or discuss anything. We knew exactly what we were doing separately, but the feeling of togetherness and belonging was sweetly spreading in my chest.

I fell asleep right after a delicious meal (that's what they say on each meal box at KLM) and woke up just as we were about to land. It was dark and my window was not showing any specific African features. I was surprised to see so many city lights. For some reason I was convinced that electricity was a rare commodity in Africa. I guess I should just watch TV more often:)

Once we got out of the plane and started walking towards the airport building, I was catching the wind with my face, closing my eyes and as if trying to swallow it with my mouth. It was very fresh, cool and had a delicate flower scent. It was the opposite of dusty, still and melting in the heat air that I imagined. I bought my visa for $100 and walked out to the baggage area. I was happy to see carts and even happier to get my duffel bag, which was neither delayed nor lost. I gently pushed my way to the exit from the small, but very organized and neat Kilimanjaro airport. I immediately met a representative from Zara Tours with two guys from my climbing group, who seemed very sweet. We waited a bit longer for other people heading to the same hotel and when the bus was full and the bags secured on the roof, we started driving.

You know how it is, to arrive in a country where you've never been before and how much you want to see everything you can see. For me it all starts with looking from the window:) It was almost 10 p.m. and darkness was hiding my first Tanzanian views. I could still see trees on each side of the road, people walking or riding a bike, the stars... And then against the dark body of the sky I suddenly saw an even darker silhouette of Mount Kilimanjaro... She was like a shy lady, barely noticeable, very timid and yet grandiose. I was looking in her direction over and over, feeling an excitement rising in my chest and my heart beating faster. Exactly the feeling you have when you haven't seen your beloved one for a long time and the meeting is finally very close. "Why? Why did you ask me to come here? Do I know you?" - I asked the Mountain. She looked at me quietly and it was the only answer I received.

"After you've travelled for 25 hours, brushing teeth seems unnecessary" - was a remark of a middle-aged woman on the last flight. I couldn't agree more! Though I just brushed my teeth before going to bed and should probably finish writing and go to sleep. I have less than 5 hours left before I wake up, take a shower, go for breakfast and then.... Actually, I am not thinking about what happens then. Right now all I have to think is about getting some good 5-hour sleep. Let's see if the net above my bed will protect me from sneaky mosquitos!